The first time I tasted a Meyer lemon from the Thompsons' tree in Palo Alto, I understood why people become obsessed with growing their own fruit. It was February, the tree was studded with golden orbs glowing against dark glossy leaves, and that lemon—still warm from afternoon sun—delivered a flavor I'd never experienced from a grocery store specimen. Sweet-tart with floral notes and a thin, almost candied peel you could eat whole. "This is why we called you," Sarah Thompson said, gesturing toward their sun-drenched backyard. "We want this, but more. An entire edible garden that actually works with our landscape."
As a landscape designer working throughout the Bay Area for over fifteen years, I've watched the edible garden movement evolve from novelty to necessity. Today's clients don't want vegetable patches hidden behind garages—they want integrated edible landscapes where fruit trees provide shade and structure, espalier pears create living fences, and dwarf citrus anchor Mediterranean-style courtyard gardens. The Bay Area's mild climate is arguably the best fruit-growing region in the continental United States, with our 400-600 chill hours, frost-free coastal zones, and Mediterranean-style dry summers allowing us to grow everything from subtropical citrus to temperate stone fruits in the same garden.
Why the Bay Area is Fruit Tree Paradise
I'll never forget the moment I realized how special our climate is. I was consulting with a client who'd just relocated from Boston, and she couldn't believe that her neighbor's Meyer lemon and Fuyu persimmon were bearing fruit simultaneously in November. "Where I'm from," she said, "you grow apples or you grow nothing." Here, we can grow citrus that needs minimal chill, stone fruits that love our spring warmth, Mediterranean figs and pomegranates, and even low-chill apples—often in the same yard.
Diverse fruit trees thriving together in a Bay Area microclimate
Meyer lemons—the backbone of Bay Area edible gardens
Understanding Bay Area Microclimates
The Bay Area isn't one climate—it's dozens. Your success depends entirely on understanding your specific microclimate. I worked on two properties last year, just twelve miles apart, where completely different fruit trees thrived.
Coastal Zones (San Francisco, Pacifica, Half Moon Bay)
200-400 chill hours, cool foggy summers, minimal frost. Perfect for Meyer lemons, Satsuma mandarins, low-chill stone fruits, figs, and cool-season apples. Forget about sweet oranges and pomegranates—they need more heat than fog allows.
Inland Valleys (San Jose, Palo Alto, Mountain View)
400-600 chill hours, warm dry summers, occasional light frost. The sweet spot for maximum diversity. Grow citrus, stone fruits, apples, pears, persimmons, pomegranates, and figs with excellent results.
Hot Interior Valleys (Livermore, Gilroy, Morgan Hill)
500-800 chill hours, hot summers perfect for high-sugar fruit. Your Valencia oranges will be sweeter here, pomegranates will actually ripen fully, and Asian pears develop outstanding flavor. Stone fruits excel with proper varieties.
Citrus: The Foundation of Bay Area Edible Gardens
If I could only recommend one category of fruit trees for Bay Area gardens, it would be citrus. These evergreen beauties provide year-round structure, fragrant spring blooms that perfume entire neighborhoods, and extended harvest seasons that put deciduous fruits to shame. Last spring, I designed a courtyard garden in Los Altos where four strategically placed citrus trees—two Meyer lemons, one Owari Satsuma, and one Persian lime—transformed a bland patio into a sensory experience. The homeowners harvest fresh citrus nine months of the year.
Meyer lemons—sweeter and more cold-hardy
Satsuma mandarins ripen November-January
Moro blood oranges add dramatic color
Essential Citrus Varieties
Meyer Lemon: The Bay Area Superstar
This is the citrus I recommend most often, and for good reason. Meyer lemons tolerate coastal fog, require minimal heat to ripen, survive temperatures into the low 20s°F, and produce nearly year-round with peak harvest late winter through spring. The compact 6-10 foot size works in containers or small gardens. I planted three in a Menlo Park garden five years ago—they've never stopped producing. The homeowners make preserved lemons, lemon curd, and limoncello, and still give fruit to neighbors.
Owari Satsuma Mandarin: The Cold-Hardy Champion
The most cold-tolerant commercial mandarin, surviving temperatures to 14-15°F when mature. These compact 10-15 foot trees produce sweet, seedless, easy-peeling fruit from November through January—perfect timing for holiday gifts. I've seen these thrive in foggy Daly City where other mandarins struggle. The fruit literally "zips off" in your hands, making them kid-friendly and beloved by everyone who tries them.
Persian Lime (Bearss): Best Lime for Coastal Areas
While Key limes need tropical heat, Persian limes actually prefer Bay Area's moderate temperatures. These 15-20 foot trees (smaller on semi-dwarf rootstock) produce seedless, mild-flavored fruit nearly year-round with heavy fall crops. They're the most cold-hardy lime at 32°F tolerance and require no excessive heat. I planted one in a protected courtyard in Burlingame that produces enough limes for year-round cocktails and cooking.
Moro Blood Orange: Dramatic Interior for Inland Gardens
For warmer microclimates, Moro blood oranges deliver deep burgundy to violet flesh even in California's mild winters. These 15-20 foot trees produce nearly seedless fruit with distinctive berry-strawberry overtones from December through April. The dark crimson flesh develops best with cool nights—surprisingly well-suited to Bay Area inland valleys. Plant in your sunniest location with southwestern exposure for best color development.
Citrus Design Tip
Plant citrus in your warmest microclimate—southwestern exposure near reflective surfaces like driveways or south-facing walls. The heat reflection improves fruit sweetness dramatically. I designed a Mediterranean-style courtyard garden in Los Gatos where white stucco walls bounce heat onto four citrus trees, and the fruit quality surpasses anything I've seen in exposed locations.
Stone Fruits: Spring Blossoms and Summer Bounty
There's a peach tree in my own garden—a Babcock white peach planted seven years ago—that has become the neighborhood landmark each spring when it explodes in pink blossoms. But the real magic happens in July when those flowers transform into sweet, aromatic fruit with juice that runs down your chin. Stone fruits deliver ornamental value and edible rewards, but success in the Bay Area requires choosing low-chill varieties and managing peach leaf curl disease.
Spring peach blossoms create unforgettable garden moments
Santa Rosa plums—Luther Burbank's Bay Area legacy
Top Stone Fruit Selections
Santa Rosa Plum: Bay Area's Historical Favorite
Luther Burbank developed this variety right here in Santa Rosa in 1906, and it remains the most popular plum in California. Only 300 chill hours, self-fruitful, and usually disease-free in Bay Area conditions. The 15-20 foot trees produce reddish-purple fruit with sweet amber-red flesh in late June to mid-July. The spectacular pure white spring blossoms smothering bare branches provide extraordinary ornamental value. I've planted dozens of these, and they're remarkably reliable producers even in coastal microclimates.
Babcock Peach: The White Peach Standard
The longtime Bay Area favorite with 250-300 chill hours and late blooming that avoids most frosts. These 12-15 foot trees produce sweet, juicy, aromatic white-fleshed freestone fruit with classic white peach flavor in mid-July. Self-fruitful and widely adapted throughout the Bay Area. The clean ornamental appearance with beautiful pink spring blossoms makes it an excellent accent tree. Susceptible to peach leaf curl—spray with copper sulfate 2-3 times during dormancy (December-February) for prevention.
Eva's Pride Peach: Lowest-Chill Champion
Needing only 100-200 chill hours, Eva's Pride excels in warm coastal microclimates where other peaches disappoint. These compact 12-15 foot trees produce delicious yellow-fleshed freestones with unique red interior mottle and distinctive flavor, harvesting mid-June to early July—the earliest peach available. Consistently high taste-test scores and heavy production make this my "if you could only plant one peach" recommendation for challenging Bay Area locations.
Blenheim Apricot: Historic Bay Area Flavor
This variety arrived in California in the 1880s and was grown extensively in Santa Clara Valley when it was the "Valley of Heart's Delight." Sweet, aromatic, very juicy orange freestone flesh with unmatched apricot intensity. Requires warm, dry weather during early spring bloom and benefits from protected microclimates. Pick when mature but unripe and ripen indoors to prevent mealiness. Despite challenges, committed Bay Area gardeners consider this the pinnacle of apricot flavor.
Managing Peach Leaf Curl
This fungal disease affects peaches and nectarines throughout the Bay Area, causing distorted reddish leaves and reduced fruit production. The good news: it's completely preventable with proper timing.
- Spray copper sulfate or copper fungicide 2-3 times during winter dormancy (December through February)
- Apply before buds begin to swell—timing is critical
- Spray after rain events during dormant season
- Consider planting peach trees under eaves for natural rain protection
- Resistant varieties like Indian Free exist but have unique flavor profiles
Mediterranean Fruits: Low-Maintenance Abundance
Two years ago, I designed a water-wise landscape in Los Altos Hills that included six fruit trees specifically chosen for drought tolerance and minimal maintenance. The clients were busy professionals who wanted edible landscaping without the commitment of high-maintenance stone fruits. We planted figs, pomegranates, and persimmons—Mediterranean climate natives perfectly adapted to Bay Area conditions. Three years later, those trees produce hundreds of pounds of fruit annually with almost no intervention. No spraying, minimal pruning, and watering only during the driest months once established.
Desert King figs thrive even in coastal fog
Pomegranate flowers attract hummingbirds
Fuyu persimmons provide spectacular fall color
Bulletproof Mediterranean Varieties
Desert King Fig: The Coastal Fig Champion
Despite its misleading name, Desert King earns the title of "THE fig of choice for San Francisco" according to California Rare Fruit Growers. These fast-growing 15-25 foot trees produce large greenish-yellow fruit with strawberry-red flesh and exceedingly sweet honey-berry taste in July. The fruit forms on second-year wood, overwintering to produce reliably even in rain and fog. The 100 chill hour requirement and shade tolerance make Desert King ideal for coastal Bay Area. Green fruit doesn't attract birds as aggressively—a bonus many clients appreciate.
Brown Turkey Fig: Reliable Two-Crop Producer
I planted a Brown Turkey fig at a client's home in Redwood City eight years ago, and it has never failed to produce two distinct crops: large breba crop in late spring/early June and main crop in early fall/August-September. The medium-large brownish-purple to rust-red fruit with light pink-amber flesh has milder, quintessentially "figgy" flavor with melon-honey notes. These 15-20 foot moderate-sized trees tolerate partial shade better than most and perform well even in cooler coastal areas.
Eversweet Pomegranate: Bay Area's Perfect Pomegranate
Highly recommended specifically for Bay Area, especially coastal areas. These 8-10 foot compact trees with arching graceful growth produce round deep pink fruit with pale pink interiors and clear, non-staining juice. Extremely sweet even when immature, with soft, virtually seedless arils. The 100-150 chill hour requirement (very low) and coastal/inland adaptability make this the top choice. Large showy orange-red flowers and glossy leaves add ornamental value. The compact size suits espalier and containers brilliantly—I've espaliered several against sunny walls in tight San Francisco gardens.
Fuyu Persimmon: Spectacular Four-Season Interest
If I could only plant one deciduous fruit tree for ornamental impact, it would be Fuyu persimmon. These 15-20 foot trees produce crisp, sweet, slightly tangy non-astringent fruit eaten firm like apples, harvesting October-December. But the real show is the beautiful orange fall leaves that persist for weeks, followed by bright orange fruit hanging decoratively on bare branches throughout winter—extraordinary landscape impact. The 100-200 chill hours, self-fruitful nature, and minimal pest/disease issues make Fuyu excellent for Bay Area. I've never had a client regret planting one.
Apples and Pears: Extending Your Harvest Season
Most people assume the Bay Area is too warm for apples and pears, but that's a misconception. Last fall, I harvested crisp Anna apples from my own garden in July, followed by juicy 20th Century Asian pears in August, and finally Bartlett pears in September. The key is choosing low-chill apple varieties and understanding that pears actually love Bay Area's heavy clay soil—one of the few fruit trees that do.
Apples and Pears for Bay Area Success
Anna Apple: Ultra-Low-Chill Summer Harvest
Needing only 200-300 chill hours, Anna apples ripen in July—one of the earliest apples available. Sweet-tart crisp juicy Golden Delicious-style fruit with slight pink blush. These 15-20 foot trees (12-15 feet semi-dwarf) thrive in SF East Bay Area and tolerate less-than-perfect sun exposure better than most apples. Requires pollinator (Dorsett Golden ideal). Pretty white-pink early spring blossoms signal the start of the fruit season.
20th Century Asian Pear: Clay Soil Champion
UC sources specifically recommend 20th Century for Bay Area, and it handles heavy clay soil well—a significant advantage since Bay Area clay challenges many fruits. These 12-18 feet trees on semi-dwarf rootstock produce juicy, sweet, mild-flavored crisp apple-like textured fruit in round yellow-green to golden form. The 300-400 chill hours suit Bay Area easily. Harvesting early to mid-August with 3-6 months cold storage potential. I've planted these in impossibly heavy clay where other fruits failed, and they thrive.
Bartlett Pear: Loves Heavy Bay Area Clay
Pears LOVE heavy Bay Area clay soil—"they like soil so heavy no other trees will survive in it," according to old-timers. Bartlett represents the world's most popular pear with juicy, smooth, buttery texture when ripe and sweet flavor in classic pear-shaped green fruit turning golden-yellow. The 500-600 chill hours work for Bay Area, and Bartlett is self-fruitful in most of Western U.S. Pick when mature but unripe and ripen indoors to prevent mealiness. I've seen mature Bartlett trees on challenging hillside slopes where the clay soil actually benefits them.
Integrated Edible Landscape Design
The most successful edible gardens I've designed don't look like orchards—they look like beautiful landscapes that happen to produce food. Last year, I worked with a family in Saratoga who wanted fruit trees but refused to sacrifice their garden's aesthetic appeal. We created a design where espaliered apple trees formed a living fence along their property line, a multi-grafted citrus tree anchored their entertainment patio, and a fig tree provided dappled shade over their dining area. The result was a stunning landscape that produces hundreds of pounds of fruit while looking like a high-end garden design.
Espaliered apples create productive living fences
Citrus trees provide evergreen structure and edible shade
Espalier Techniques: Fruit Trees as Architecture
Espalier—training trees to grow flat against walls or fences—is my secret weapon for small Bay Area gardens. These living sculptures produce surprising amounts of fruit while occupying minimal space. I've espaliered apples, pears, citrus, and even peaches with beautiful results.
Best Trees for Espalier
- Apples and pears (traditional choices, very responsive)
- Citrus (especially compact varieties like Meyer lemon)
- Pomegranates (naturally elegant branching)
- Figs (flexible wood, forgiving of pruning mistakes)
- Stone fruits (require more maintenance but stunning in bloom)
Design Advantages
- Maximizes production in minimal space
- Creates living privacy screens
- Adds architectural interest to blank walls
- Improves fruit quality through better sun exposure
- Makes harvesting and maintenance easier
Container Growing: Edibles for Patios and Balconies
Not everyone has yard space for fruit trees, but that doesn't mean you can't grow your own. I've helped dozens of clients create productive edible container gardens on San Francisco balconies and small patios throughout the Bay Area. The key is choosing naturally compact varieties on dwarfing rootstocks.
Top Container Fruit Trees
Meyer Lemon (Dwarf/Semi-Dwarf)
Naturally compact 6-10 feet, productive in large containers, requires minimal heat
Improved Meyer Lemon on Flying Dragon Rootstock
Ultra-compact 4-6 feet, perfect for smallest spaces, unique thorny ornamental rootstock
Dwarf Owari Satsuma Mandarin
Compact naturally, cold-hardy, perfect for exposed locations
Violette de Bordeaux Fig
Semi-dwarf 10-12 feet, exceptional flavor, handles containers beautifully
Eversweet Pomegranate
Naturally compact 8-10 feet, ornamental flowers, sweet fruit
Multi-Budded (Fruit Cocktail) Trees
For clients with limited space who want variety, I often recommend multi-budded trees—single trees with 3-5 different varieties grafted onto one rootstock. I planted a 4-variety citrus tree at a client's small San Mateo garden that produces Meyer lemons, Persian limes, Owari Satsuma mandarins, and Moro blood oranges from one tree. It's become their favorite garden feature and conversation starter.
These work particularly well for stone fruits (multiple peach or plum varieties on one tree) and citrus. Dave Wilson Nursery and Four Winds Growers both offer excellent selections specifically suited to Bay Area conditions.
Understanding Chill Hours and Pollination
Chill Hours: Why Some Trees Fail in Bay Area
I've learned this lesson the hard way. Early in my career as a landscape designer, I planted a Bing cherry tree for a client in Palo Alto because they specifically requested cherries. It barely bloomed and never produced significant fruit. The problem? Bing cherries need 700-800 chill hours, and Palo Alto receives only about 400-500. The tree wasn't diseased or poorly cared for—it was simply planted in the wrong climate.
Chill hours are the number of hours between 32°F and 45°F that deciduous fruit trees experience during winter dormancy. Most Bay Area locations receive 300-600 chill hours, with coastal areas on the lower end and inland valleys higher. This is why low-chill varieties are essential for success.
Trees That Need Low Chill (200-400 hours)
- Anna and Dorsett Golden apples
- Eva's Pride and Babcock peaches
- Santa Rosa plums
- Desert King figs
- Fuyu persimmons
- All citrus (no chill requirement)
Trees to Avoid in Most Bay Area Locations
- Bing cherries (700-800 hours)
- Most apples except low-chill varieties
- European plums (700-800 hours)
- High-chill peaches and nectarines
- Traditional pear varieties (600+ hours)
Pollination: Self-Fruitful vs. Cross-Pollination
Understanding pollination requirements prevents disappointment. I've had several clients call me confused about why their beautiful blooming fruit tree produced no fruit—usually because it needed a pollinator partner that wasn't present.
Self-Fruitful Trees (No Pollinator Needed)
These produce fruit with their own pollen—ideal for small gardens with space for only one tree.
- All citrus varieties
- Most figs (some produce without pollination)
- Santa Rosa plums
- Most persimmons (though yield improves with pollinator)
- Pomegranates
- Many low-chill peaches including Babcock
Trees Requiring Cross-Pollination
Need another compatible variety blooming simultaneously within 50 feet.
- Most apples (Anna needs Dorsett Golden)
- Some Asian pears in cooler areas
- Many Japanese plums (though Santa Rosa is self-fruitful)
- Sweet cherries (Minnie Royal and Royal Lee need each other)
Harvest Timing: Planning for Year-Round Production
One of my favorite aspects of designing edible gardens is creating harvest succession—selecting varieties that ripen at different times so clients have fresh fruit as much of the year as possible. Last year, I designed a small orchard for a family in Los Altos that delivers fresh fruit ten months of the year through strategic variety selection.
Bay Area Fruit Harvest Calendar
Late Winter/Early Spring (February-April)
Meyer lemons (peak harvest), Owari Satsuma mandarins (late season), loquats (March-April)
Late Spring (May-June)
Loquats (continuing), cherries (Minnie Royal/Royal Lee mid-May), apricots (late May-June), early peaches (Eva's Pride mid-June), early plums (Santa Rosa late June)
Summer (July-August)
Peaches (Babcock mid-July, August Pride late July-August), nectarines, plums (continuing through July), figs (Desert King July, Brown Turkey August), Anna apples (July), Asian pears (20th Century August)
Fall (September-November)
Pears (Bartlett September), figs (fall crop), pomegranates (September-October), persimmons (Fuyu October-December), late apples
Winter (December-February)
Persimmons (continuing), citrus (blood oranges, navels December-May), Meyer lemons (year-round with peak late winter)
Design Strategy: The Year-Round Edible Garden
For a small garden with space for 4-6 fruit trees, I recommend this combination for maximum harvest diversity:
- Meyer Lemon - Year-round production, peak late winter
- Owari Satsuma Mandarin - November-January harvest
- Santa Rosa Plum - Late June harvest, beautiful spring bloom
- Babcock White Peach - July harvest, ornamental value
- Fuyu Persimmon - October-December harvest, spectacular fall color
- Desert King or Brown Turkey Fig - July-August harvest, drought-tolerant
This combination provides fruit 8-9 months of the year, includes both evergreen and deciduous trees for seasonal interest, requires minimal maintenance once established, and works in most Bay Area microclimates.
Maintaining Your Edible Garden
The most common question I hear from clients: "How much work will this be?" The honest answer depends on what you plant. A garden full of stone fruits requiring spray programs, careful pruning, and disease management is genuinely high-maintenance. A garden anchored by citrus, figs, pomegranates, and persimmons requires remarkably little attention once established—similar maintenance levels to the coastal native gardens I design that thrive on benign neglect.
Watering Requirements
Establishment Phase (Year 1-2)
Deep watering 1-2 times per week during growing season. Reduce frequency in winter. Focus on encouraging deep root development.
Established Citrus
Deep watering every 2-3 weeks in summer, minimal in winter. More drought-tolerant than most assume.
Established Stone Fruits
Regular watering during fruit development, reduce after harvest. Consistent moisture prevents fruit splitting.
Mediterranean Fruits (Figs, Pomegranates, Persimmons)
Minimal water once established. Deep soaking monthly during driest periods often sufficient. True water-wise choices.
Fertilizing Schedule
Citrus
Feed 3-4 times per year (February, May, August, November) with citrus-specific fertilizer. Watch for yellowing leaves indicating nutrient deficiency.
Stone Fruits
Light feeding in early spring before bloom. Avoid over-fertilizing which promotes excessive vegetative growth.
Mediterranean Fruits
Minimal fertilizer needed. Light compost application in spring usually sufficient. These prefer lean soils.
Container-Grown Trees
More frequent feeding (monthly during growing season) since nutrients leach from containers. Use half-strength liquid fertilizer.
Pruning Basics
Pruning intimidates many homeowners, but fruit trees actually need less aggressive pruning than most people think. The goal is maintaining tree health, improving light penetration, and managing size—not creating perfect symmetry.
Citrus Pruning
Minimal pruning needed. Remove dead wood, crossing branches, and water sprouts. Shape young trees to open center or modified central leader. Citrus blooms and fruits on new growth, so don't be afraid to prune lightly for shape. Prune after harvest before spring growth flush.
Stone Fruit Pruning
Moderate to heavy pruning required annually. Open-center (vase shape) is traditional—remove central leader and create 3-4 main scaffolds. Prune during dormancy (December-February) before buds swell. Remove 1/3 of previous year's growth to encourage new fruiting wood. Stone fruits bear on 1-year-old wood, so annual renewal is essential.
Fig Pruning
Light pruning only. Figs fruit on new wood, so they're forgiving. Remove dead wood and shape as desired in winter. Some varieties fruit on second-year wood (breba crop)—avoid heavy pruning on these.
Pomegranate and Persimmon Pruning
Minimal pruning needed. Remove suckers, dead wood, and crossing branches. Allow natural form to develop. Both have beautiful branching architecture worth showcasing.
Getting Started: Your Edible Garden Action Plan
Creating Your Bay Area Edible Garden
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1.
Assess Your Microclimate
Determine your chill hours, identify frost pockets, and locate your sunniest areas. Citrus needs 6+ hours of direct sun. Observe where heat accumulates—near south-facing walls, reflective surfaces, sheltered courtyards.
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2.
Choose Varieties for Your Conditions
Match trees to your specific microclimate. Coastal gardens: focus on citrus, low-chill stone fruits, and figs. Inland valleys: expand to include pomegranates, sweet oranges, and wider stone fruit selection. Avoid high-chill varieties that will disappoint.
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3.
Design for Integration
Think beyond "orchard." Use fruit trees as shade trees, privacy screens, and focal points. Consider espalier for tight spaces. Choose container varieties for patios and balconies. Integrate edibles into your overall landscape design.
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4.
Improve Soil and Drainage
Most fruit trees prefer well-drained soil. Amend heavy clay with compost and pumice. Consider raised beds if drainage is poor. Exception: pears actually love clay soil.
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5.
Plant in Fall or Early Spring
Fall planting (October-November) allows roots to establish during rainy season, reducing summer water needs. Early spring (February-March) works but requires more irrigation attention first summer.
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6.
Plan for Long-Term Care
Choose varieties matching your maintenance commitment. High-maintenance stone fruits require spraying and careful pruning. Low-maintenance Mediterranean fruits thrive on neglect. Be realistic about time you'll invest.
Three years after I planted that first Meyer lemon for the Thompsons in Palo Alto, I returned for a consultation on expanding their edible garden. Sarah met me at the door with a basket of fruit: Meyer lemons still warm from the tree, sweet Owari Satsuma mandarins, and ripe Santa Rosa plums. "Remember when I said we wanted more?" she asked, smiling. "We got more than we imagined."
Their garden had become a neighborhood gathering place. Kids stopped by after school to pick mandarins. Neighbors traded fruit—lemons for persimmons, figs for pomegranates. The landscape had knit together beautifully, with fruit trees providing structure, shade, and seasonal interest while producing hundreds of pounds of fruit annually.
That's the real gift of an edible garden in the Bay Area—it connects us to seasons, to our unique Mediterranean climate, and to the profound satisfaction of eating food you've grown in your own landscape. Whether you're planning a full edible landscape design or adding your first fruit tree to an existing garden, the Bay Area's mild climate and long growing season offer possibilities unavailable almost anywhere else. Start with one tree—maybe that Meyer lemon—and let it inspire what comes next. Your garden, and your table, will never be the same.



